Pigmentation Types: How to Identify, Understand & Treat Discoloration

Understanding Pigmentation & Skin Discoloration

Here’s how to spot the most common pigmentation types — and how not to get them confused.

1. Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

What it is:
Dark marks that develop after the skin experiences inflammation — from acne, cuts, burns, bug bites, or even aggressive skincare treatments.

How to identify it:

• Flat brown, purple, or dark grey spots where the skin was previously irritated or injured.

• Can appear days or weeks after a breakout or trauma.

• Common in all skin tones but more stubborn and darker in medium to deep skin tones.

What it can look like:

• Active acne (but it’s flat and not painful).

• Melasma (but melasma is patchier and hormonally driven).

• Scars (but PIH is just discoloration, not raised or textured).

Key detail:
PIH fades slowly over time but can take months or longer without treatment.

2. Melasma

What it is:
A chronic condition that causes patchy, uneven dark areas, usually on the face. Often triggered by hormonal changes (pregnancy, birth control, menopause) or sun exposure.

How to identify it:

• Symmetrical patches on cheeks, forehead, upper lip, or jawline.

• Appears brown, grey-brown, or almost blue-grey in deeper tones.

• Usually appears gradually and gets darker with sun exposure.

What it can look like:

• Freckles or sunspots (but melasma is larger, more diffuse, and symmetrical).

• PIH (but PIH usually follows a specific breakout or injury).

Key detail:
Melasma is persistent and may get darker with heat or hormonal shifts, even with treatment. It requires long-term management, not just a quick fix.

3. Sunspots (Solar Lentigines)

What it is:

Sun-induced flat spots caused by long-term UV exposure. Often called “age spots” or “liver spots.”

How to identify it:

• Small to medium flat brown spots on areas that get the most sun: face, hands, shoulders, chest.

• Usually more defined than melasma or PIH.

• More common in lighter skin tones and with age.

What it can look like:

• Freckles (but sunspots don’t fade in winter).

• Melasma (but melasma is patchier and more hormone-related).

• In rare cases, they can resemble skin cancer, so any unusual change should be checked by a dermatologist.

Key detail:
They don’t go away on their own but respond well to treatments like laser, peels, or brightening ingredients.

4. Freckles (Ephelides)

What it is:
Small, flat, light-to-medium brown dots that increase with sun exposure and fade in colder months.

How to identify it:

• Usually genetic and common in fair skin.

• Appear in clusters across the nose, cheeks, and shoulders.

• Become more visible after sun exposure.

What it can look like:

• Sunspots (but freckles fade with less sun; sunspots don’t).

• PIH in lighter skin (but freckles are not related to inflammation or trauma).

Key detail:
Freckles are harmless and natural, but wearing sunscreen can prevent them from darkening or increasing.

5. Hypopigmentation

What it is:

Areas of skin that are lighter than your normal tone, due to a loss or lack of melanin.

How to identify it:

• Lighter patches that may appear after skin trauma (cuts, burns, rashes) or conditions like eczema or fungal infections.

• Texture remains normal unless there’s scarring.

What it can look like:

• Vitiligo (but vitiligo is more sharply defined and spreads symmetrically).

• Tinea versicolor (a fungal infection that can also cause lighter spots, often on chest or back).

Key detail:
This is not the same as albinism or complete pigment loss. Hypopigmentation is often temporary but may take time to repigment.

Bonus: Mottled Pigmentation / Uneven Tone

What it is:
General unevenness in skin tone due to sun exposure, aging, or lifestyle.

How to identify it:

• No defined patches — just an overall “blotchy” or dull appearance.

• Often comes with texture issues or enlarged pores.

What it can look like:

• Melasma (if it's more subtle and diffuse).

• Skin dryness or dehydration (which can make uneven tone look worse).

Key detail:
This type of discoloration responds well to exfoliation, hydration, and brightening treatments.

FAQ: Pigmentation Advice from a Skin Therapist

❓What’s the difference between pigmentation and scarring?

Answer:
Pigmentation is a change in skin color, often flat and smooth — like dark spots after acne (PIH). Scarring involves a change in texture, such as raised, indented, or thickened skin. Some clients have both, but they require different treatments.

❓How do I know if I have melasma or just sunspots?

Answer:
Melasma tends to appear as larger, symmetrical patches, especially on the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip. It’s often hormone-related and gets darker with sun and heat. Sunspots are smaller, isolated, and UV-related — they don’t fade seasonally and are more common with age.

❓Can pigmentation go away on its own?

Answer:
Some types, like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), may fade over time — but very slowly. Melasma and sunspots usually won’t fade without treatment and sun protection. The earlier you start using targeted products, the better your results.

❓Why is my pigmentation getting darker even though I’m using skincare?

Answer:
Most likely, your skin is still being exposed to UV light or heat, which stimulates more melanin. Even if you’re indoors, visible light and infrared heat can worsen pigmentation. Wearing a broad-spectrum SPF daily and reapplying is essential.

❓Can deeper skin tones safely treat pigmentation?

Answer:
Absolutely — but the approach must be careful. Deeper skin tones are more prone to hyperpigmentation from irritation, so avoid overly harsh peels or strong actives without professional guidance. Gentle exfoliation, niacinamide, azelaic acid, and SPF are great starting points.

❓Do I need different products for each type of pigmentation?

Answer:
Not necessarily. Many ingredients (like vitamin C, niacinamide, licorice root, and tranexamic acid) work across multiple pigmentation types. But if you know the cause of your pigmentation (e.g., hormones vs. acne vs. sun), you can choose more targeted treatments.

❓How long before I see results from pigmentation treatments?

Answer:
With consistent use of the right products and daily sun protection, you may start seeing results in 4–6 weeks, but real improvement often takes 8–12+ weeks, especially for stubborn cases like melasma. Patience and consistency are key.0